Jons class

Play with the settings,
Adjust the material,
Add things during the printing,
Move/tilt the plate during the printing,
Physically pull, stretch, etc during the printing,
Use interesting images to print (shadow, water,...),
Combine nature with mechanics,
...

Test 1:
Use an image of a natural pattern,
Change the height of the nozzle to plate to 3mm instead of 0,3mm,
Use transparent filament

Result 1: I ended up stopping the print after two layers as I already found the light pattern it created extremely interesting and wanted to keep it. I stopped half way through the second layer so that you could see the difference between layer1 and layer2. There is this openness in the gaps that has potential and creates this interesting effect in combination with the transparent filament.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, speed 100%

Result 2: I clearly has some issues with this sample, the issues being that the speed was still too high as well as a filament issue. When the filament issue was solved it continued printing where it last left off. The speed in combination with my specific first layer of the image created this height where each stroke of the filament piles on top of the last one, printing in the air.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, speed 50%

Result 3: I printed the base at 52% but realized I could've easily just printed that at a speed of 100% as it doesn't make a difference just speeds up the process. Printing the first layer at 25% was a good idea because it finally started getting controlled. This sample is simply a controlled version of result 1&2. I enjoy the contrast between the first and the second layer they "cross" each other organically.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, speed 25%

Result 4: In this sample I tilted the left part of the plate by screwing it tighter. The contact the filament had with the tilted part was unusual and created this "wave" that from the top looks dynamic.(left bottom corner) I find the movement it formed interesting, there is definitely potential in this tilting technique. The base was printed with the plate still straight.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, speed 29%, tilted left bottom plate

Result 5: I now tilted the center back side of the plate. As this one is in the center it is going to have a bigger effect on the over all sample. Because I printed the base with the plate already tilted, the base didn't stick well to the plate and detached at one point. It shifted the print mechanically and created different 'strokes' of the filament.(not only linear but also loops) As the last tilted sample it still achieved those interesting 'waves'.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, speed 25%, tilted back plate

Result 6: I adjusted the material flow during the print to see what it would result in. It ended up just looking thicker and thinner where I adjusted the flow which could be nice in pattern making but its a bit flat. On the bottom left there is this interesting light contrast happening which I think happened because of the first layer of the image, I don't think its because of the adjustments in material flow.

Settings: nozzle height 3mm, material flow 100%->130%->160%->190%->100%

Conclusion #1:
The samples are too flat, working with a 3D printer you can really use what it offers and what other machinery doesn't ,3D modeling. Build up and continue experimenting.

I used an image of reflecting water and a piece of a wooden boat. I wanted to see how the water reflection would react in a three-dimensional way. Unfortunately I could only set the lighter parts of the image to be "lower" which probably created a in my opinion less interesting result. It did create this effect that almost looks fuzzy which is surprising considering the image is clear and not that textured.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 50%

Test 2:
using reflection and water

Test 3:
Use contrasting materials, see how they react on each other, intervene a lot within the printing itself.

I fluffed up the thread to create irregular textures, actively placing the yarn through the print while it is 3D printing. I find it challenging as sometimes I placed the yarn exactly where I wanted it to be but the nozzle pushes it or gives it another shape then I desired. It is interesting as the nozzle intervenes on my intervention. The heat of the nozzle sometimes discolored/burned the yarn slightly. The wool ended up attaching really well to the filament but didn't lose its flexibility too much. It is a nice contrasting sample but I do think the transparent filament might not be the best decision as some interesting parts get lost in the transparency.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 70%

Here I tried it with a neutral colored filament that would still create a contrast between the print and the yarn. Still fluffing up the yarn and intervening in the same way. I added yarn more often when it was printing at particular spaces to see the difference. I find it pretty interesting to see the contrast in colors, materials and amount of yarn. Because I haven't fully controlled how to place the yarn sometimes it created the gaps in the filament which is something I want to prevent in the future.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 70%

Conclusion #2:
There are some interesting samples appearing. Try a monochrome version, a fully contrasting color one and experiment with the use of the support. Give the support an actual function within the print, repurpose it. It is starting to look like a vase which could be an interesting result for after the midterms.

Test 4:
Close the bottom of the previously used model. Try out all the feedback given by Jon (monochromatic,...)

Using the same color yarn as filament I created a monochrome version with a closed bottom instead of open. I am still struggling with the gaps that sometimes appear in-between the yarn and the filament but the more I print the better its getting and the least gaps appear. I really like this sample, from afar it seems as if the yarn is filament that is organically placed on the sides of the print but from up close you can clearly see the difference in material use.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 70%

With this sample I tried using complementary colors to see what the contrast would bring. Using tiny pieces of the blue yarn and the orange filament I achieved this monster like experiment. It was extremely tricky to place the tiny pieces of wool into the print. It feels a bit more messy than my previous yarn and filament samples.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 70%

This sample was an experiment in which I wanted to find out if it was possible to reuse and repurpose the 3D printed support. The placing of the support/excess material was pretty tricky but gave nice results. The hot nozzle and filament makes it very easy to "attach" the support. They all melt together and come one. Depending on the thickness it is more difficult to intervene but I'm pretty happy with the general outcome and how I can build from my conclusions.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 60%

Using synthetic thread I wanted to figure out if it would melt with the heat of the nozzle. As my nozzle was in movement and the filament cools off really quickly it didn't melt only using the heat of the nozzle. I had to change my plan a little and pause the print when I wanted to place the yarn. Afterwards I used a lighter and melted the filament enough for it to be kind of moldable and pressed the synthetic yarn onto it, waiting until it attaches. Then I unpaused the print and let the new filament layers coat over the yarn. It was a tricky process that I definitely haven't controlled fully but it is interestingly sturdy and has different properties then normal yarn when using it to 3D print.

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 70%

Controlling my yarn samples I designed some patterns I could apply to the print. It was extremely tricky because the pieces are so short but I do find the result nice. Even though I used tweezers it was still a complicated process that is hard to control. The contrast between the fluffy soft yarn and the cold smooth filament is interesting. I still like the monochrome colors but want to experiment with different colors as well. Maybe even different colors of yarn in one print or different materials (meaning not only yarn or synthetic and natural).

Settings: nozzle height 0.3mm, speed 25%

Conclusion #3:
Continue with what I am doing. I have created some interesting samples that have potential. Make one more of the yarn one with an actual controlled pattern. Try the same technique with synthetic thread. Create a final sample in which you use the 3D printer as a heat source rather than an extruder.

1) Interfering with the file

How much do I adjust the settings of the machine to create interesting and surprising results?

I tried various things and experimented a lot, as these were made in the very beginning of the process I didn't have much knowledge yet on the settings which I think worked in my favor looking back at it. Generally I let the machine do its thing unless I found something interesting then I aborted the print and kept it unfinished.

A print doesn't need to be done for it to achieve intriguing results. Changing the settings has a lot of influence on your final print.

Is filament going to bind my 'odd material' and how can I control it?

I experimented with contrasting materials, techniques and colors achieving this odd family. Learning from each previous print I adjusted my technique, tools, settings and approach for the upcoming ones until I found somethings that worked. Controlling my designs or purposely creating chaos was tricky but educational.

Some interesting qualities I unveiled are the contrast between textures, hot and cold materials, chaotic and clear designs, repurposing excess filament, creating patterns, color contrast, etc.

3) Intervening in between

How are these materials going to connect when I place them in between my print?

I used two extra materials that can melt when in contact with high temperature. The synthetic yarn is thicker which made it tricky to fit in-between the nozzle and the print, eventually I had to pause the print as well as use a lighter to heat the yarn even more. On the contrary the excess filament is thin and melted at the temperature of the nozzle, which made for a smoother process.

In conclusion, using synthetic material could achieve interesting results as they react to heat in an unexpected way.
They connect well with the filament but can be tricky if thick.

I wanted to view the 3D printer as a heat source rather than an extruder by experimenting with the heat of the nozzle, it was a real struggle. Synthetic thread melts when in touch with high heat but I found out that the heat of the nozzle isn't hot enough by making all these experiments. Connecting two pieces of synthetic thread was impossible with the lack of heat and thickness of the thread. Although one piece of synthetic thread in combination with a piece of printed filament does connect, they melt together and attach smoothly. By lifting the nozzle after letting it melt a top layer of the thread it can create these interesting peaks. These experiment lead to a whole new idea I will show next.

Settings: nozzle heat 225°

I wanted to continue with my idea of using heat of a machine, as the 3D printer wasn't a hot enough source I had to move on to the laser cutter. First I placed a row of loose synthetic threads onto a piece of wood with tape. I created a grid "pattern" for the laser to follow, made the height difference between the plate and the laser bigger and put the laser out of focus to prevent any deep laser cutting. The grid attached all my separate pieces of thread together and also created this new color way. It is almost sparkly and looks like plaid.

Settings: out of focus, big height difference from laser to plate, not too slow speed

How is the heat of the laser cutter or 3D printer going to influence synthetic thread?

I went into the idea with an open mind, fully experimenting and seeing what would happen. Adjusting where needed even if that meant I had to change my machine to finally get a result I was hoping for.

With a 3D printer can be used for its heat only when combining printed filament and synthetic thread. Most likely also with two pieces of thinner synthetic thread, the thickness made the melting challenging.
An out of focus lasercutter can connect synthetic thread by melting the pieces together, resulting in interesting colors and patterns.

5) Personal favorite interventions

These were my favorite experiments I created during this term so far. I mostly used odd materials and work really hands-on. I find interfering during the process exciting and interesting, it feels as if you have a bit more control over what is happening. I see potential in all of these